noodlepie

Is this the best rice in Saigon?

Com sen is rice (com) steamed with fresh lotus seeds (sen) and mixed with small shreds of pork. It's served at Ngu Vien Restaurant in District 3. I've never seen this rice served anywhere else, but I'm sure if you look hard enough it'll turn up somewhere else in this town. It comes wrapped in a lotus leaf, always with a lotus flower attached. It's quite the most dainty rice dish you're ever likely to find in Saigon. Com sen just pips my other fave rice dish from this shack Com dua, or rice cooked inside a coconut. Com dua arrives on the table in a slightly charred coconut shell. In among the rice are some finely chopped vegetables and pork, but no lotus seeds.

I don't care for the pork in Com sen, it's the combination of textures of the barely flavoured lotus seeds and the steamed rice that does it for me. Incredibly simple, slick to the eye and a meal in itself. I'm a bit of a heathen and I find the tiniest splash of chilli and garlic infused soy sauce in each bowl full gives this stupendous rice in a leaf dish a nice little boot out of the lilly pond.

Saucy Saigon

Just when you think you've learnt the lot, you err... learn something more. I got an invite to Ngu Vien restaurant for lunch yesterday. We dug deep into the Hue end of the menu, and only the Hue end. One of the dishes that arrived was the banh uot tom chay you see above. It's quite different and a whole lot better than a similar dish called banh uot nong commonly found on the street. But the interest for me doesn't lie so much in the light white rice flour floppies sprinkled in 'prawn dust'. No, it's in that bowl on the left. The Ngu Vien banh uot tom chay dip is made from water that has been used to cook prawns. It is then mixed with nuoc mam (fish sauce), prawn dust, sugar and lemon. It's then boiled and left to cool. This dip, I am told, is unique to this dish. And... it's really bloody good.

That's reminds me of words I said yesterday that I never thought I would ever utter, "I hope Germany win tonight". Likewise, I never thought I'd say the rice flour end of the Hue food spectrum was ever any good, let alone bloody good, but it clearly is. A case of Banh uot tom chay uber alles or sommit.

Ngu Vien Part 4

A few quick additions to our ongoing journey through the Ngu Vien restaurant menu. Above we have a Vietnamese classic, Chao tom (Shrimp paste on sugar cane) served with sliced starfruit, cucumber, lettuce and green banana. There's a couple of side dishes along for the ride too; rice paper to stuff your hacked up Chao tom inside and Bun (cold vermicelli noodles). You'll also get a nuoc mam (fish sauce) dip. This is one of the better versions of this Chao tom I've found. And only 22,000VD for one. You can also gnaw the sugarcane when you're done with the meat. Neat. The Chao tom at Quan An Ngon in District 1 comes with "angel" bun. Also neat.

This is billed as Ca Thu Chien (Fried Mackerel). It's not a mackerel, it's a firm fleshy fish with a light flour batter fried within range of crispiness, but no further. Scrummy and simple. Dip it in the nuoc mam. Whenever I order food at Ngu Vien I always end up with two or three different varieties of fish sauce on the table. Difficult to keep track of which one should go with which dish... Ca Thu Chien goes for 39,000VD.

Last up is Goi va (Fig fruit salad served with sesame rice cakes) This is very similar to the jackfruit salad we covered during our last visit to this restaurant at 40 Ky Dong Street in District 3. On reflection, I'd say this was even better than the jackfruit. No mean feat. It's a warm salad with shredded pork mingling with the fig fruit. The fig fruit is softer than the jackfruit version, although it does lack that surreal jackfruit texture we discussed before. The shoddy snap doesn't do this justice. Highly recommended and'll set you back 42,000VD. For previous Ngu Vien reviews, go to Part 1, Part 2 & Part 3. View the business card.

Ngu Vien Part III

I'm still ploughing my way, with great pleasure, through the menu at Ngu Vien. We've sat down for a stuffing at this table before here and here. The muzak-music selection at Ngu Vien sunk to a new low on this visit. In my mind's eye the musicians are part of a kidnapped band forced to grind through the most turgid of cellophane symphonies on the whim of a Kim-Jong-Il-alike, brains dulled day-in-day-out by the din. I can cope with Hell's backing band (just...) as we've yet to find a total bummer on the menu. And tonight is no different. We'll begin with the weakest link, pictured above, Ca Dieu Hung Hap Hanh (Steamed Sea bass with spring onions) 69,000VD. It was the dreariest dish, but it was still decent. Don't think it was actually sea bass, but what the hell, it was fresh enough, bags of greens sitting atop a metal plate on a paraffin flame. There's enough fish for two at a push. And with rice and greens, you'd be set for the evening. But, we needed more. Much more.

Ngu Vien does two great salads, one with grapefruit and the one above, Goi Mit (Jackfruit Salad served with sesame rice cakes) 39,000VD. Be careful not to dollop all the nuoc mam (fish sauce) that comes with this dish on top of the jackfruit - you'll swallow more salt than the North Sea if you do. What makes this a winner is the subtle flavour and texture of the jackfruit. Half melting, half chewy. Couple that combo with the crisp crunch of the sesame cracker and it's a blindin' must try.

Next up is Muc Nuong Sate (Grilled Squid with Sate) 57,000VD. Squid is a risk in some Saigon restaurants, not here. It's as succulent as it looks in the snap above. Just as important is the sate. This is often a disaster in Vietnam, but again Ngu Vien come up with the right balance of sweetness and spicy zip. Good stuff.

Last up Canh Bo Nau Khe (Beef soup with carambola) 31,000VD. This is a sour soup, but not too sour. The carambola (or star fruit) is the main flavour enhancer adding that sourness. The beef's no great shakes, but the soup juice over rice with a smidgen of star fruit was a super end to yet another stuffing at Ngu Vien. View the business card and in Vietnamese.

Ngu Vien Part II

Since I last blogged by Ngu Vien at 40 Ky Dong street in District 3 I've returned three or four times and had delivery to Pieman towers the same amount. I'm still working through their voluminous menu, but I thought it might be useful to round up a few new found faves. First up is the chap above, Chinh Nuong La Chanh (Grilled eel with lemon juice) 75,000VD. It's simply slices of fresh eel (they have live eels in the aquarium near the entrance) grilled to spectacular succulence with the heavy scent of lemon juice and charred lemon leaves. The flesh is soft, just avoid the central bone as it can cause a nasty clunk mid munch if you're not careful. There's a salty, lemon dip too - just in case you haven't had enough citrus. Eat simply with rice.

In the green corner is this sauteed stunna, Bo xoi xao toi (Sauteed spinach with garlic) 18,000VD. They use really fresh spinach here and with the garlic punch it's a vegetarian virtuoso performance from the boys at Ngu Vien. Again, scoff this fella with plain rice, well I do, you do what you want. The other veggie of choice in Vietnam, Rau Muong xao toi (Morning glory with garlic) is equally super, but a bit more work in the toothpick department apres stuffing.

Carnivores who have a penchant for carpaccio will find the Bo Tai Chanh (Rare beef in lemon juice) 35,000VD of interest. Loaded with lemony fizz and garnished with raw onion and strings of red pepper, it's a 'rare' treat. I'm a little wary when it comes to raw dishes in Saigon, but this has never caused any 'consequences' even when delivered to Pieman towers. The heavy duty use of lemon does make this an ulcer unfriendly platter, but if you're not suffering, this is a blinder. Highly recommended.

Last up for this edition of noodlepie meets Ngu Vien (we'll be back for more, don't you worry) is Canh Mung Tui (Malabar nightshade soup) 25,000VD. As I mentioned a few days ago, I'm a big Canh fan, although the spinach in this one is a bit glutinous and gloppy. Like scoffin' a slug. It's earthy stuff and there's plenty of greens in there to keep you regular. However, I'm still ploughing through their Canh menu as I don't think I've hit their sweet soup spot yet. Any tips, lemme know. Dinner for two with drinks came to 185,000VD, about $12. View the business card and in Vietnamese.

Neon wonder

Noodlepie is not nuts for neon, but Vietnam is. If you’re not fluoresc-ing out front, inside and everywhere in between, so the theory goes, the scoffers with the coffers can’t see you, won't choose you, won't pay you. Ngu Vien at 40 Ky Dong Street adheres a la mode - it's just as garishly visible as any of the other restaurants in District 3. Further aesthetic punch is provided by the soul-less vibes that flood the half indoor, half outdoor restaurant with muzak-misery from a looped tape spool. It doesn’t look good, it sounds appalling, but Ngu Vien is packed.

The restaurant has an extensive menu, it is well-known for its Hue cuisine. There’s a delicacy to the regional dishes of Hue missing in other parts of the country and Ngu Vien serves 28 Hue specialities and there are four Sunday specials. However, a nibble at the nuances of Hue didn’t appeal on this visit as I decided to take a stab at 5 other dishes. First up was the chap above, Goi Rau Muong (“Water morning glory salad”) 33,000VD. Prawns, pork, pepper and peanuts served on a bed of stripped, fresh morning glory and a side dish of light fish sauce – chuck all of this sauce on - it’s a healthy option. The morning glory has a marvelous moorish crunch. It’s not a special dish although it does pack plenty of pleasant ruffage at this spread.

The meat in the meal is hidden away inside that coconut above. This is Bo Tai Nuoc Dua (“Rare beef in coconut”) 35,000VD. It was recommended by the waiter. Tres tender, thin strips of raw beef ‘cook’ in a slightly sweet spiced coconut sauce. There’s always the chew-factor worry when ordering raw or rare beef dishes in Vietnam, but this was excellent. The dish find of the night.

This is the southern standard, Ca Kho To (“Stewed fish Vietnamese style in bowl”) 27,000VD. The sweet caramelized fish sauce floods the clay bowl with its thick juices seeping into the fish flesh. Diners can choose from three kinds of fish - Ca Hu (“Catfish”), Ca Loc (“Snack-head fish” – think they mean Snake-head fish…) and Ca Tre (“Fatten fish”). I prefer the Ca Hu for this dish. I am sure the others work equally well, however I do find the Ca Tre a bit too fatty for this dish. This serving of Ca Kho To was first rate. The sauce is addictive and well worth pouring the remnants over rice for a mashed up baby food hit.

Last up was the Canh (soup). Ngu Vien has an extensive array of Canh on offer. I stongly recommend their Canh Chua Ca, but on this visit I plumped for a Canh-unknown, Canh Mang Ca Thac Lac (“Fish soup with bamboo shoots”) 38,000VD. There’s something about pounded fish lumps/balls that just doesn’t work for pieman and this rather fatty soup comes filled with them. There’s just no taste. And the texture is a turn off. This soup looks great and the bamboo is tasty enough, but I wouldn’t order this again. And with a whole page and a half of Canh on the menu, I won't have to.

The menu is vast; eel, frog, beef, squid, shrimp, crab and cua dinh (that's the kind of tortoise looking tense in the tank near the entrance). There are also six “special” Grouper numbers and seven Lau (steamboat hotpot type fella) dishes on offer. Whether or not you’re a fluorescent-fan or muzak-mad, you won’t come out of Ngu Vien hungry or dissatisfied. With rice and drinks for two persons, this meal came to 176,000VD. A hit. View the business card and in Vietnamese.