noodlepie

Hoa Vien Brauhaus, 1A Tang Bat Ho St, Hanoi

"Although the humidity and haze of Hanoi is a million miles away from the chilly spring of central Europe, Hanoians can treat themselves to a taste of the Czech Republic at Hoa Vien Brauhaus restaurant, which just opened a new branch in the capital city. HCM City has been home to one branch of the Czech bar Hoa Vien since 2001 and Hanoi has had one for more than a decade. But that one was much smaller, located at 8 Ngoc Ha Street. The new building in Vietnam’s capital is much bigger and more modern. At the grand opening of the new building, I was allowed a sneak preview of the Czech bar and restaurant. It was packed with guests; Vietnamese people who had lived in the former Czechoslovakia and also many Czech nationals including Ambassador to Viet Nam Ivo Zdarek," writes Thanh Ha in The Vietnam News.

ABC Fast Food, 53A Hang Bai Street, Hanoi

"With over 100 Western and Vietnamese meals on the menu, ABC Fast Food has something for everyone. And while the surroundings won’t leave you in awe, the prices will, says Jessica Gray. There are few restaurants I frequent here in Hanoi, but ABC Fast Food is one of them. With over 100 western and Vietnamese dishes, there’s always something new to eat at a reasonable price to boot. To start, I recommend trying the fried spring rolls. The crispy, bite-sized treats are an ABC speciality. I guarantee you’ll be wanting more as soon as they’re gone, a phenomena that usually happens in about five minutes," from the Vietnam News.

Dong Son Drum, No. 1 Tran Dang Ninh/316 Cau Giay Ave, Hanoi

"When the Dong Son Drum Restaurant opened three months ago, people weren’t sure what to expect from an eatery filled with 2,000-year-old artefacts in the northwest corner of Hanoi. Beyond its ornate decorations and display cases is a highly professional staff and tasty treats from a one-of-a-kind restaurant, located on the second floor of a private museum. Owner Nguyen Dai Duong, who’s name means the ocean, is the son of a sailor. Also the owner of the New Century Club in downtown Hanoi, Duong said he opened Dong Son to showcase his collection of bronze drums made about 2,000 years ago in central Vietnam," writes Nguyen My Ha in The Vietnam News.

Pho Thin, 13 Lo Duc St, Hanoi

Interesting to see a review of Pho Thin at 13 Lo Duc street in Hanoi in the Vietadvertorialnam News,

"I have a confession to make: for the first three months I lived in Hanoi, I didn’t especially like pho... But then I tried Pho Thin at 13 Lo Duc Street. After my first bite (slurp?), I knew this was not just any pho. It tasted entirely different from any I’d ever tried: the beef was lean and tender, the broth flavourful and aromatic. I dived into my bowl and ate until not a noodle remained. As I discovered on a subsequent visit to Pho Thin at 8.30am, I’m far from the only one who thinks this is the best pho around."

I'll admit I used to think this way until I visited Saigon... since when I was converted/enlightened/brainwashed - take you pick. (UPDATE: Sticky Rice has the full skinny - see comments). I noticed one factual error in Julie Ginsberg's review and I've corrected the sentence. See below,

"We do business with our hearts," he said. "Our priority is pleasing our customers, not making money or spending so much as one measley little shilling of our money on doing this shit pit of a soup shack up or  letting rentokill loose for an hour or two. No siree. You want comfort then you can bugger off to the Hilton."

NoK Bar, No 1 621/Lane no.1, Lac Long Quan St, Tay Ho Dist, Hanoi

"Tucked away on a side street west of West Lake is a little bar where the American War is remembered with a giant arsenal of memorabilia. Old military uniforms, antiquated army equipment and defused bombs are scattered around NoK Bar along with hundreds of other vintage objects from an era that is understandably still a sensitive topic in modern Vietnam. Visitors to Hanoi who are interested in local history and culture but shell-shocked after spending too much time in the Old Quarter’s tourist traps will find NoK to be a handy retreat," writes Michael Libucha for the Vietnam News.

How to...

Spend $5 in Hanoi. I spotted this stall pictured above. I can certainly vouch for it, especially in the winter. But, banh goi are not samosas, not even close :) but they are fried. And they're quite a different animal in Saigon.

Tao-Li Restaurant, 84 Tran Nhan Tong Street, Hanoi

"From February 10 to 25, the Tao-Li Restaurant in the Nikko Hotel will offer the best of Shanghai cuisine in honour of the Chinese Lunar New Year. The restaurant is on the second floor of the hotel, which is located on Tran Nhan Tong Street near Thong Nhat Park. The meal consists of eight succulent dishes featuring a wide selection of foods traditionally eaten during this holiday, ranging from exotic mushrooms and dried cranberries to birds’ nests. The menu was created by Tao-Li chef Qiang Feng from Shanghai. This is a unique culinary opportunity because many restaurants are instead focusing their attentions on specialties reserved for Tet, the Vietnamese Lunar New Year celebration," write Jessica Gray for The Vietnam News.

Hanoi Pho Cafe, 50B Tran Nhan Tong Street, Hanoi

"Hanoi Pho Cafe follows a simple formula: high-quality ingredients, low prices and careful attention to detail. If the cafe’s packed tables are any indication, the formula works like a charm. Of course, there are other factors in the equation. One is the cafe’s beautiful decor. Fresh, stylish decorations use glass and high-energy colours to liven up the atmosphere. The expansive windows create optimum space and entertainment for people watchers. Personally, I go for a window seat on the second floor for a bird’s eye view of people hustling up and down Tran Nhan Tong Street," writes Le Lan Huong for The Vietnam News.

technorati tags:Hanoi, Vietnam, Vietnamese restaurant

Mao’s Red Lounge, 7 Ta Hien Street, Hanoi

"Mao’s Red Lounge is the comfortable warm sweater of Hanoi’s bar scene. Nestled in the heart of the old quarter on Ta Hien Street, the bar is an unpretentious, snug and comfy place to lounge, drink and be yourself. Like a trusty old sweater, it’ll keep you warm all night with a late closing time and friendly service. The bar staff here are hard-working but won’t hassle you with constant inquiries about whether you’d prefer a Carlsberg beer instead of the cheap Halida you’re drinking. Those looking to get freaky on the dance floor it’s best head to one of Hanoi’s few proper night clubs like New Century; those looking to impress their date with stylish settings and expensive flirtini cocktails should saunter down to bars like the Sofitel Metropole’s Met Pub. But if you want to chill out, have a chat or just check out where my dogs at, Mao’s is the destination," according to Michael Libucha in The Vietnam News.

technorati tags:Hanoi, Vietnam, Hanoi bars

Adida, 37 Nguyen Khac Nhu, Hanoi

"It’s hard to go wrong with a restaurant that has a rotating menu of over 300 dishes, though meat lovers may be a little disappointed. I was told you could count the number of exclusively vegetarian restaurants in Hanoi on one hand, so the addition of Adida, which opened just under a month ago, is welcome. Tucked away in a small street on the far north-eastern side of the Old Quarter, Adida offers a twist on Sino-Vietnamese cuisine that may not test the most adamant steak eater’s resolve but is worth a try if you’re looking for a healthy alternative with hardy food. The rotating menu is based on what vegetables and fruits happen to be in season or what’s available at the market, which is a subtle way of saying that two visits will unlikely result in the exact same dining experience," writes Kenneth Crawford in The Vietnam News.

technorati tags:Hanoi, Vietnamese food, Vietnam

Pho UK

I think I'm right in saying this... Darren Ferguson appears to be blogging UK Pho. He even has a Flickr map of Pho in the British Isles. He doesn't go a bundle on details, but if he keeps it up he'll build up quite a nice wee resource for Phodicts in the UK.

Bonusfreakoutvideolink: I've consulted NoStarWhere and we're agreed that the Bun Nam Bo in Hanoi does not serve, and never has served, Pho. So, what's going on with this? However, Nem chua is another story and I'll be blogging on that verysoon.

technorati tags:Hanoi, Vietnamese food, Pho

Hai Su Merlion, 111-K1 Giang Vo, Hanoi

A first person stroll through a Singaporean restaurant in Hanoi, from Du Van Nga in the Vietnam News, "When I entered, a smiling waiter guided me to a table near the owner. Despite the crowd, a menu was laid in front of me within a few minutes. On the restaurant’s sign board, I glanced the word Singapore, so I decided to try some food from the city state. I began with the com xa xiu thit quay kieu Singapo (Char Sew and Roasted Pork with Rice) at a price of VND25,000 (US$1.56). While waiting, I had a chance to talk with the friendly owner of Hai Su. She said she had lived near China town in Singapore for seven years and travelled back and forth during two years to learn about the food business. Aside from running a successful restaurant, she wanted to introduce local customers to Singaporean dishes, something she thought could foster mutual understanding." .........

technorati tags:Hanoi, Vietnam, Singaporean, restaurant

Au Lac House, 13 Tran Hung Dao St, Hanoi

"If it roams Vietnam, it’ll probably be on the menu at Au Lac House, an upscale restaurant on Tran Hung Dao Street in the centre of Hanoi. Featuring a dizzying array of entrees, from the mundane (pork) to the exotic (river tortoise in red wine sauce), Au Lac House will likely have something for everyone. But be warned – you better have a healthy stack of dong in your wallet. The entrees start at VND59,000 for more low-key fare like chicken, beef and pork, stretch into the VND250,000-400,000 range for salmon, garoupa and carp and plateau at VND650,000 for the tortoise. With a wide range of wines, cocktails and desserts, the bill could creep towards VND1 million for a couple looking to sample true Vietnamese delicacies," writes Andrew Raven in The Vietnam News.

Quan Ngoai O, 19 Nguyen Gia Thieu Street, Hanoi

"Quan Ngoai O is tucked away on a quiet street that feels more like the suburbs than the centre of a growing metropolis and is eerily absent of xe om drivers. It does have screaming neon lighting outside, but when you enter the restaurant the intensity calms and the city noises drown quickly. The restaurant had five tables occupied, all by locals, which was a promising sign that the Vietnamese cuisine was up to scratch. Quan Ngoai O has indoor and outdoor seating, but is not a large venue, which adds to its quaint interior. Even though it’s a little nippy for those of us that grew up in the tropics, I would suggest sitting outside where tables are arranged under a small, high-ceiling hut that is similar to many thatch roofed structures seen across Melanesia and other parts of the Pacific. The decor is a bit ethnic with the hut and bamboo furniture, but is in no way tawdry," write Kenneth Crawford in The Vietnam News.

Hanayuki Japanese Restaurant, 25 Mai Hac De Street, Hanoi

"Acting on a word-of-mouth recommendation, we found exactly what we were looking for at Hanayuki Japanese Restaurant. Here we experienced fast and hugely amicable service, along with a calm, civilised atmosphere, enhanced by a rarely found lack of Muzak (an overwhelmingly tedious element of many restaurants), and lively conversation among the Japanese expat patrons whose presence began to prove the restaurant’s proficiency in providing authentic Japanese fare. Strolling down the charming foodie Mai Hac De Street, we knew we’d struck Japanese cuisine when we came to a restaurant where red paper lanterns inscribed with simple characters hung down to either side of sliding screen-doors. We were welcomed by a doorman, and a waitress showed us to one of the tables lining either side of the ground floor (there are three floors in total). The setting was fairly elegant but not over the top; chairs were comfortable, the settings, simple," writes Justine Reilly in The Vietnam News.

Maan... sometimes I hate linking out to this lame writing in the Vietnam News. However, there is method in the madness. FWIW, my favourite Japanese place in Hanoi is KY-Y.

Com Viet, 13 Ly Thai To St, Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi

"If you’re looking for a slice of traditional Hanoi, in terms of both decor and gustation, you’re likely to find what you’re after at Com Viet. The three-storey restaurant sits one block from Hoan Kiem Lake, in the area behind the giant statue of Hanoi’s founding father, Ly Thai To, on the street named after the same man. Com Viet, meaning "Vietnamese rice", is owned by a woman who hails from something of a dynasty herself. Her family owns such Hanoian eateries as Nam Phuong and Cay Cau, while her sister runs a silk store in the Old Quarter, from where the restaurant’s curtains and waitresses’ ao dai are sourced," writes Justine Reilly in The Vietnam News.

Bi Do, 5 Le Ngoc Han Street, Hanoi

"Take an evening stroll down Le Ngoc Han Street and you can’t possibly miss Bi Do. Once the sun sets, the restaurant’s cheerfully bright exterior, complete with a glowing neon pumpkin, is the only sign of life in this quiet neighbourhood. When I entered Bi Do with a group of friends last Saturday night, however, I found that the restaurant resembled the rest of the neighbourhood, with sleepy service and an atmosphere devoid of life. Only one other table was occupied in the room where we had been seated, and no music was playing, so the place lacked any sort of din. As a result, we found ourselves in an eerie silence whenever there was a break in conversation. That was only the beginning of the awkwardness of the meal," writes Julie Ginsberg in The Vietnam News.

Hanoi food map

This feels like the foodblog world's most drawn out departure. NYTimes Style Magazine run a food map of Hanoi I put together while I was still living in Vietnam.

Great to see blogbud - the legendary - Clotilde getting busy with spuds and Monsieur Potato Head in the same issue. Restaurant frightener Jay Rayner also chips in on a piece about Brit food critics. Interestingly - YES REALLY - both Clotilde and Jay helped me out with an ancient - in blog years - piece in The Guardian.

The Hanoi food map is a javascript page, so you'll have to click through from the bottom at the page at the NYTimes to see it. Not keen on the snaps that accompany my text. They're not mine. You can see the shots I took to help me work on the map in this Hanoi photostream. I also blogged a tiny wee bit about the trip - thanks to all who offered suggestions :) Lastly, here's the magazine entry about me (and others) on the contributors page.

Now, Sticky Rice and all you Hanoians. Tell me. My choices. Da bomb or da crap?

Opera Club, 5 Dang Thai Than St, Hanoi

"It wasn’t until we’d been led to the highest mezzanine floor of the Opera Club that I realised what we had actually entered. At the heart of this low-lit venue was a cavernous theatre and at the centre of this theatre, a stage. And it wasn’t until leaving that I realised the stage could be seen from the multiple levels and hidden corners of the club floor. The size of the interior – with its wood-panelled walls and art deco lead lighting – seemed to rival that of the Hanoi Opera House, though this opulent decor was more a melting pot of Asian and European styles, business club meets romantic restaurant. The club has been built by the same man who created such Hanoian superclubs as New Century, the Ha Le Club and Ho Guom Xanh (the one with the enormous graphic equaliser on the outside, opposite Hoan Kiem Lake)," writes Justine Reilly in the Vietnam News.

I-Box Restaurant, 32 Le Thai To St, Hanoi

"If you’re looking for a cheap meal, there are plenty of roadside stalls that  will be more than happy to throw some pho into a bowl for you, where you can sit  on a plastic stool, waving mosquitoes away whilst dining on your beef noodles. However, I-BOX has put a lot of effort and money in to their classy, elegant and romantic dining and drinking establishment, making the slightly higher price of food more than acceptable. Walking into I-BOX, one is immediately transported to another era of style and class. There are attractive, well dressed cigarette girls walking around offering you imported, after-dinner smokes, reminiscent of Humphrey Bogart movies, and Las Vegas nightlife," writes Ed Merlin in The Vietnam News.

Si Phu Restaurant, 9 Nguyen Khac Can Street, Hanoi

"Although the restaurant provides its guests with innumerable Asian dishes, from Vietnamese to Singaporean to Chinese, the dish that Si Phu’s owner Do Thi Bich Hanh boasts of is the hot pot. Before entering Si Phu for a friend’s birthday party, I did know that we would be having lau (hot pot) at a luxury restaurant, but when I sat down everything was far from my expectation: in front each of us was a single hot pot squeezed into a hole on the table, a plate of Australian beef, a plate of seafood (shrimp, oysters, and a piece of salmon), and a plate of assorted vegetables (corn, pumpkin, quash, cabbage, vermicelli and mushroom). All of us, including me, the group glutton, underestimated our ability to finish such a big portion," writes Le Lan Huong in The Vietnam News.

Little Hanoi Drinks & Food, 21 Hang Gai Street, Hanoi

"Little Hanoi Drinks & Food is a diamond in the rough. A paradise for the palates of foreigners, this medium sized cafe serves up some tasty meals, bringing a reminiscent familiarity back to the average expat or tourist looking for a little taste of home. From the outside, this cafe appears similar to most others in the popular Hoan Kiem Lake area, with a small open counter to the street in front serving up coffee, pastries and the like to passers-by lured over by the fragrant aroma of freshly brewed coffee. But for those who venture inside, a more rewarding treat is sure to be dished out," writes Karen Merlin in The Vietnam News.

Time Cafe, 17b Han Thuyen St, Hai Ba Trung Dist, Hanoi

"Time Cafe is a restaurant dressed like a coffee shop. The fact that the word cafe is displayed beneath the tasteful sign on the front of the building, makes the gastronomic delights found within taste even better ... In a city so full of restaurants, this enjoyable little eatery stands out by not standing out. The decorum leans toward Mediterranean, with a quaint, well lit little bar to the right of the front door. The absence of garish neon or loudly coloured walls is a nice change. The atmosphere is friendly and the staff is helpful ... Time Cafe has been operating for four short months. The refined interior was designed by local artist, Dang Duc Thanh. The drink menu was designed by local special needs children. Tuong and his staff take every opportunity to assist these special people through their hiring practices and assistance to local programmes," writes Ed Merlin in The Vietnam News.

Slaviansky Restaurant, 102 Mai Hac De St, Hai Ba Trung Dist, Hanoi

"When the weather turns blustery, warm up Russian-style at Slaviansky Restaurant, with a shot of homemade vodka, a belly-filling stew and even a spot of karaoke ... From the cold appetisers menu we delivered the comforting chicken and potato salad in mayonnaise sauce (VND40,000) and cold meat plates of roast pork and scrumptiously crumbly beef (both speckled with fresh garlic wedges throughout) and boiled tongue (VND70,000). Though my carnivorously unadventurous nature was initially repulsed by the tongue, the meat turned out to be tender and pleasant," writes Justine Reilly in The Vietnam News.

Cafe 69, 69 Ma May Street, Hanoi

"Cafe 69 is a Vietnamese restaurant going after a Western clientele, and someone has shown them how – but that someone forgot a few things. Western influences are everywhere at this quaint two-story restaurant in the heart of Ha Noi’s Old Quarter. The English menu includes a frappuccino, as well as cocktails dubbed the "Claudia siffer" and the "fallen angel". If a scan of my homogeneously Western fellow diners didn’t tip me off to the restaurant’s bent, the Starbucks lingo was a dead giveaway. Restaurant logic dictates that a Vietnamese eatery entirely devoid of Vietnamese eaters might be a bad sign. Much as I hate to say it – because I do appreciate the place – the theory rings true for Cafe 69, a lovely restaurant with fairly average food," writes Julie Ginsberg in The Vietnam News.

Kinh Bac Restaurant, 9A Da Tuong St, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

"I think I’ve just found your angle," said one of my dining companions, pointing to the seal genital soup listed on the first page of our menus. And while such daunting dishes do make for a good yarn, they certainly aren’t the stand-out feature of Kinh Bac Restaurant on the southern edge of the Hoan Kiem district. During the dining experience that followed our initial amusement, my two companions and I were led through a realm of subtle delights in an establishment that has become a favourite haunt for government officials. And the best part is it’s possible to enjoy some of the finest specials on the menu without paying elite prices. Named after the old capital, Kinh Bac has set out to recreate traditional Vietnamese seafood fare, with well-placed Western and Chinese influences making forays into some dishes. The restaurant is part of a small chain, with a branch in HCM City – Saigon Xua (Old Saigon). Until two years ago Kinh Bac went by the name Claret, serving European food and placing a strong emphasis on wines. But a change of hands has ushered in a new era and a new chef, who was born to Chinese emigres in HCM City’s Chinatown (hence the use of Chinese flavours in some meals)." writes Justine Reilly in The Vietnam News.

Bangkok Hanoi restaurant, 52A Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hanoi

"An evening at Bangkok Hanoi Restaurant holds the potential to deliver equal parts pleasure and pain – often even in the same bite. Emerging into the restaurant’s upper floor and taking a seat at a white-clothed table was a pleasure. The dining room is lovely, its clean white walls and wood touches reflecting the soft light from lamps, with moonlight shining in from the open balcony. The pleasure mounted with the first bite of a fried Thai spring roll. The prawn-and-vegetable-filled rolls were uniquely tasty and not at all heavy: Bangkok Hanoi was batting a thousand so far," writes Julie Ginsberg in The Vietnam News.

Bun Bo Nam Bo, 67 Hang Dieu Street, Hanoi

"At Bun Bo Nam Bo, the name says it all. That’s what they do, and they do it well. One should not visit this tiny establishment, basically an expanded street vendor, seeking a classy meal. One glance at the banana leaves and napkins littering the floor gives that away. Nor should anyone come to 67 Hang Dieu Street in pursuit of an ambient meal. The cacophonous din from the small TV perched in the corner in symphony with the humming fans makes that quite clear as soon as you sit down. Couples looking for a romantic dinner had better look elsewhere; the bench seats and long metal-topped tables are in no way suited for intimacy. If, however, you would like a warm bowl of bun bo nam bo, a concoction of noodles and beef topped with peanuts, dried onions, bean sprouts, green papaya and a mysterious blend of vegetables and herbs, then you should absolutely try this place bearing its name." writes Julie Ginsberg in The Vietnam News.

My Way seafood restaurant, 17T3 Hoang Dao Thuy St, Cau Giay District, Hanoi

"Located in Cau Giay District, My Way Seafood Restaurant demands a relatively long haul for central Hanoi dwellers. It’s worth the trip, however, for one reason: the deep-fried seafood spring rolls. Dip a delicately breaded seafood spring roll in creamy sauce and take a little bite of heaven. The contents of these spring rolls remain mysterious – who knows what kind of fish is in them or how they get that surprising hint of fruitiness? It’s best to simply trust the genius that created them. At VND38,000 for a small order and VND58,000 for a larger one, the seafood spring rolls are among My Way’s many affordable delicacies." writes Julie Ginsberg in The Vietnam News.

Cafe Goethe, 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hanoi

"Hanoi is probably as far from Berlin as is gastronomically possible, but Cafe Goethe, with its sophisticated take on a hearty, meat-and-potatoes cuisine, is one of the nicest foreign eateries in the city. Cafe Goethe’s brilliance lies not only in its German classics – because it is far and away the best and practically the only place to go to satisfy a hankering for wiener schnitzel or bratwurst – but in its staples done to perfection. Saying Cafe Goethe is German is perhaps reductive. Despite the fact the menu is in German, its ultimate allure and charm comes from taking a more pan-Western approach, in an unpretentious, down-home style." writes Liz Fink in The VIetnam News.

Au Lac do Brazil, 6A Cao Ba Quat, Hanoi

"... back to the meat, which really is the spotlight of this restaurant. Forget about breezy Copacabana cafes and eating fruit on the beach. The restaurant’s only nod to beach-side Brazilian style is a standard selection of fresh juices. Au Lac do Brazil is far from the tourist’s view of Rio, representing instead a masculine, meat-loving instinct fundamental to South American culture. Vegetarians, enter at your own risk. The restaurant’s raison d’etre is the churrasco (VND290,000), which is ten to 12 courses of barbecued pork, shrimp, chicken, bacon, lamb, cupin, striploin, ribs, sausage, combinations thereof, and – the star of the show – an absolute onslaught of beef. Servers constantly approach with yet another skewer, wielding improbably large knives, to cut off more hunks of flesh. In a final flourish, the last course is a skewer of barbecued pineapple. It’s the Atkins diet taken to its logical extreme," writes Liz Fink in The Vietnam News.

ILU Lounge, 8/9F, 18 Yen Phu, Hanoi

"With its ultra-cool vibe, great cocktails and imposing panoramic views over the Hanoi skyline, ILU last summer became a popular after-dark hangout for much of the capital’s my-daddy’s-the-ambassador crowd and their entourages hoping to escape the hoi palloi. The initial euphoria has worn off somewhat in recent months, and mortals are now discovering a more laid-back atmosphere for whiling away sultry weekend afternoons and evenings over good food and drink. Two large rooftop patios – one facing west over Truc Bach and West lakes, the other east over the Hong (Red) River – are a great place to bask in the capital’s ethereal light as cool summer breezes temper the heat of the meat-eating sun nine stories up from the cacophony of traffic on the streets below," writes Johnny Shaw in The Vietnam News.

Stop Cafe, 11b Ngo Bao Khanh, Hanoi

"Among the mediocre eateries of HaNoi’s Bao Khanh tourist ghetto, Stop Cafe is a real find, cooking up terrific, low-priced Western and Vietnamese fare and an unusual pizza that’s a thing of beauty. Stop Cafe blends many traditions, but instead of being middle-of-the-road, with a frenetic energy all its own it succeeds at being something new. Located on the popular Bao Khanh strip, it was conceived as a low-cost offshoot of the pricey, elegant, and eminently French Cafe des Arts, which is just next door. But Stop Cafe’s dominant identity isn’t really French, as evidenced by its English name and the fact the menu, which is translated into both English and French, spends far more detail and energy in the English portion. Basically anything given an exclamation point and most of the best zingers-like the VND53,000 "CHEESE sandwich for the amateurs," a standard menu item that Stop Cafe presents with an expert touch – aren’t even translated into French," writes Liz Fink in The Vietnam News.

The Press Club Deli, 59A Ly Thai To St, Hanoi

"The Press Club has been a venerable part of Hanoi’s eating-out scene since the famous French interior designer Brigitte Dumont de Chassart was invited to create a piece of France in Hanoi in 1997. While the club has many hard-core aficionados, surprisingly few newcomers and tourists find it. Perhaps they are misled by the name, they may believe it to be a private club for journalists. What a pity, as they are missing out on a lot. The Press Club can arrange just about anything, from a cup of cappuccino accompanied by today’s newspaper in Les Comptoirs to a swinging birthday party on the terrace or even a wedding reception in the restaurant. I have focused my attention on the deli, a handy everyday eatery. Although primarily a place for a quick a business lunch, it has a cosy, unhurried, French bistro-like ambience," reports Hannu Vuorl in The Vietnam News.

Hanoi vs. Saigon

I haven't visited Hanoi for two years or more. In the meantime, I think I must've become totally Saigonized. On my recent trip, I found Hanoi pho, even at my old fave, to be limp, fuelmode food with not a shred of finesse. Bun cha, the Hanoi lunchtime staple is fine, fine stuff and it was topnotch at 23 Ta Hien street, but... and this might put the cat amongst the sparrows... I've had better in Saigon. In fact, this was the problem with pretty much everything I tried in Hanoi, I came to the same conclusion, I've had better in Saigon. Not the result I expected, but I fear, factually true.

Which got me thinking about Vietnamese folk I've known over the years. I've known quite a few Hanoians who moved to Saigon for work. More often than not, they grow to love Saigonese scoff. But, reverse that migratory process and I can't think of a single Saigonese I've met who grew to love Hanoian food. Not one. Hmmm?? Discuss.... Extra-value added link: Hanoi Vs. Saigon via gridskipper

Hanoi wifi

After grumbling about wifi access in other parts of the world I was both pleased and confused by the Hilton Hanoi Opera hotel. In room ethernet cable access will cost ya' something like $7 per hour or circa $20 for 1 day of access - I can't remember the exact prices. However, nip down to the lobby (pictured above) flip open your laptop and you can ride the hotel wifi free of charge regardless of whether you're paying for a room or you're a passing vagrant. Try the same trick at the Sheraton Saigon and you hit an expensive pay wall, but free wifi is ubiquitous in Saigon. I didn't look hard in Hanoi, but I spotted access Puku (thanks NoStar) and at a bar/cafe called Manneken Pis on (I think) Tong Dan street. I'm sure there are other access points. Drop a comment if you know of a good one and I'll update the post.

Hasta Hanoi

Cheers from Hanoi - been a blast. Couple of last minute appointments - sorry, OMIH - and then it's back to the land of plenty. No more streets that shut by 9pm. Gone are the ubiquitous mien luon, bun oc and bun rieu stalls and back with hu tieu, banh canh cua and bun bo Hue. Same-same but a bit different, as they say. Meanwhile, a decent Hanoi bia hoi, like the one pictured above can be quaffed, and refilled ad infinitum for the price of two peanuts and a bag of gravel, at 68 Tran Quat street in Hanoi's Old Quarter. Alternatively, head to my fave spot, Tang Bat Ho.

Hanoinked

Slowly hoovering up all, or at least a lot, of what Hanoi has to offer. You can follow the photostream. Sorry, to all folk I won't be able to meet up here. A combination of being beaveringly busy and catching up with old friends :)

Dinh Lang, 1 Le Thai To St, Hanoi

"The biggest challenge of the Vietnamese restaurant Dinh Lang was the menu. Granted, the surprisingly loud live music being played about 6m to my right made it hard to focus. Hearing Oh Susannah played on tea glasses and a bizarre rendition of Auld Lang Syne – played in June, complete with a xylophone solo – was a little discombobulating. But it was impossible not to relax in the long, narrow restaurant with the shape and decor of a Ha Long Bay tour boat. We were cooled down by wonderful gusts of air conditioning, ensconced at a table surrounded by standard-issue pan-Asian decor like reed curtains and dragon lanterns. Right-side tables enjoy prime views of Hoan Kiem lake," writes Liz Fink in The Vietnam News.

Le Tonkin, 14 Pho Ngo Van So street, Hanoi

"The menu is solidly Vietnamese, but the garden feels vaguely French, like Southeast Asia viewed through the eyes of a Catherine Deneuve film. Le Tonkin’s quiet elegance sets it apart, and it also boasts cheaper prices than its gourmet Vietnamese restaurant counterparts, like Emperor and Nam Phuong. Whether it is the dimmed lighting or falling flowers or the creatively accented food, Le Tonkin’s virtuoso touches are in the details. Starting with the appetizers, the goi cuon tom thit, or fresh spring rolls (VND32,000), were well-done standard fare, and the muc chien gion sot man, or fried calamari (VND64,000) were crisp and excellently complemented by the plum dipping sauce. But the goi du du tom thit, papaya salad with shrimp and pork (VND32,000), was the star of the large selection of appetizers. With an expertly crafted nutty sweetness, cold and absolutely lovely, it was as diaphonously summery as a gauzy white sun dress, and equally elegant," writes Liz Fink in The Vietnam News.

Diva Cafe, 57 Pho Ly Thai To, Hanoi

"Diva’s menu brings out all the big guns; clearly, the intent was to try to hedge its bets with any audience who might wander into one of its chic tables. With a variety ranging from Western staples to Vietnamese to vegetarian to gourmet, Diva pulls it off... ...Even coming in hot and tired, it would still be a mistake to overlook the clay pot mains – the eggplant, tofu, and tomato option on the sizeable vegetarian menu (VND35,000) was especially notable, with crisp tofu and a refreshing, artfully spiced sauce. The meat and fish selection – including pork, beef, chicken, duck, squid, salmon, shrimp, and more – are equally enticing. The pho is a good deal, particularly the lunch special (VND12,000)," writes Liz Fink in The Vietnam News.

Leone D’Oro, 2 Co Tan Street, Hanoi

"Leone D’Oro is a delightful addition to this group. The restaurant is in a beautiful, old converted building located right across from the Hanoi Opera House, making it the perfect choice to grab a bite to eat following a concert or show. There aren’t many tables so the feeling is intimate, with light music and the faint hum of motorbikes harmonizing in the background. While inside, it isn’t hard to imagine Leone D’Oro tucked away on a cobblestone street in Italy with a Vespa or two parked out front. While we were there a group of Italian men happened to be eating at the table next to ours, adding to the effect. The menu is fairly extensive, covering everything from antipasti, soups and salads, to pastas, risotto, pizza and calzones. You would be hard-pressed not to find your favourite Italian standard on this menu, as well as some more creative choices," writes Sara Schapiro in The Vietnam News.

Little Hanoi, 9 Ta Hien street, Hanoi

"If Dickens’ Old Curiosity Shop was transposed to the side room of a pagoda and converted into a restaurant, the result would be something like Little Hanoi, where the faint scent of incense, musty furniture and fresh herbs drift out onto heaving Ta Hien Street, the pulsing jugular of the city’s labyrinthine Old Quarter. Number 9 has since 1998 been a first stop for jet lagged backpackers with grumbling bellies cracking the spines of their new guide books, where it is invariably cited as ‘worth seeking out’. But what makes it stand out from the plethora of tourist-friendly eateries in the area is its consistently well-prepared Vietnamese food served in a charming atmosphere at an unbeatable value, as evidenced by the loyal following Little Hanoi has gathered among the city’s expat diaspora," reports Johnny Shaw in The Vietnam News.

Green Lotus, 40 Trieu Viet Vuong street, Hanoi

"The amiable waiting staff looks gorgeous in their green and gold traditional Vietnamese dress and offer helpful tips on how to wade through a comprehensive menu of over 100 items. It sounds like an overwhelming amount of choice, but the menu follows a logical dining order that categorises all selections under clear headings with pictures of numerous dishes. The seafood selection is broken down into tiger prawn, squid, crab, Mat quy (devil’s face) fish, grouper, eel, scallops, cordy shell and clam dishes that are served up in various styles, including: Beijing, Thai, Chinese, Xichuan, Hong Kong and, of course, Hanoi," writes Leah Hay in The Vietnam News.

La Restaurant & Bar, 25 Ly Quoc Su Street, Hanoi

"What a pleasant surprise, and change from the monotonously regular! Man at the helm Wayne Sjothun (Hanoi old-timers will remember him from Cafe Thyme) has managed to transform a typically Vietnamese style restaurant space (which can be awkwardly "long"or cramped) into one exuding calm and spacious coolness. I’m not sure if it was the beautiful wooden sliding doors and huge windows in front, or the high ceiling, soothing wall colours and tasteful decorations inside that had the best welcoming effect. Maybe it was the absence of a blaring television set or equally deafening "background" music. Thankfully, like just about everything else in this delightful establishment, the background music that was just that: in the background, with understated elegance," writes Carina McIntosh in The Vietnam News.

Puku Cafe, 60 Hang Trong Street, Hanoi

"Puku was the inspiration of Pham Thi Hoa, a Vietnamese designer who moved to Ha Noi from Ha Long City in the hopes of starting a modest business. Upon her arrival, Hoa saw a gap in the market with Western travellers on a budget. Hoa began a small shop called Memory, selling low priced jewellery that reflected Western trends. The cafe has become a hot spot for expats who bring their moped helmets to the tables, a symbolic item to differentiate themselves from the typical tourist. At any time in the day you will find expats lounging about the cafe engrossed in a novel, typing away at a lap top making good use of the cafe’s wireless internet access or taking a break from work in the company of colleagues," reports Polly Banks in The Vietnam News. The opinion of the esteemed Sticky Rice was up four months previous.

Technorati Tags: Vietnam, Hanoi, Puku

Is this the best bun cha shed in Hanoi?

Glad to see ex-Saigon resident and fellow bone chewer Mr. NoStarWhere landing at what is probably my favourite bun cha stall - purely on a taste basis - in all of Vietnam at 20 Ta Hien street in Hanoi's old quarter. In days of yore, before this blog, I catalogued my eating experiences in Hanoi. I tried a lot of street stall bun cha in Hanoi. There are some fantastic stalls on Phung Hung street, Ly Thai Tho and elsewhere. When I next head north (in June I think) I'll blog my top faves in disgustingly lurid detail. Do you have a favourite bun cha in Hanoi? Please let me know, before June... :)

Technorati Tags: bun cha, Hanoi, scofftastic

Restaurant 66 Hang Bo, 66 Hang Bo St, Hanoi

"Former toy merchant, Le Thi Thanh Hong decided she wanted to open a reasonably priced restaurant that offered a vast selection of satisfying meals, was pleasing to the eye and easy on the wallet. After planning long and hard, she was finally able to see her dream become reality when ‘66’ opened in April 2005... [snip]... "I am most proud of the architecture," said manager, Bui Quoc Hung, one of the friendly and well experienced staff. At night the soft yellow lighting is absorbed into the creamy orange tinted walls creating a cosy and peaceful ambience. "I wanted to make a place where families could come and enjoy Vietnamese music and a good meal and relax," Hong said. The menu is divided into two parts; regular meals which include a fine selection of European dishes such as pasta and steaks as well as seafood and Vietnamese meals including noodle dishes and hot-pots, and then there is a whole different menu offering special meals," writes James W Coates in The Vietnam News.

Tara Cafe and Restaurant, 3A Ngo Quyen St, Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi

"Tara Cafe and Restaurant, a three minute walk from the Sofitel Metropole Hanoi, in the historic Hoan Kiem District, downtown Hanoi, is not a new eatery. Instead, much about Tara feels old-world. In the charming Hanoi fashion, this quiet, authentic colonial building purposely refuses to replace cracked tile with linoleum, tall, green wooden framed windows with modern flashiness or slowly brewed coffee with instant. Paired with this colonial style is an abundance of savoury traditional Vietnamese and Western dishes. Inside their enclosed courtyard, anyone can experience one of the gastronomical gems that embodies all of Hanoi’s classical tastes," writes Le Ann in The Vietnam News.

Cafe Pho, 15 Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hanoi

"Cafe Pho is a bright, airy restaurant fronted by a recessed, spacious courtyard sheltered by a marquee and a row of trees providing breezy respite from the city's meat-eating sun and dramatic thunderstorms. The decor, with a few vaguely art-nouveau motifs, has a modest, understated elegance, while blithe servers and clattering customers keep the atmosphere decidedly casual. Its location on one of Hanoi's most pleasant broad avenues, places it among a host of cafes and restaurants, walking distance from the opera house and Hoan Kiem area, but far enough from the cacophonous Old Quarter's more frenetic streets to offer a calming change of pace. The obvious popularity of Cafe Pho among native Hanoians- who comprise the vast majority of the clientele- amid such competition underscores its status as a tried and tested lunch and dinner destination," writes Johnny Shaw in The Vietnam News.

Restaurant Bobby Chinn, 1 Ba Trieu Street, Hanoi

"After stealing the show in the New York Times’ review of Hanoi restaurants last month, Bobby Chinn certainly doesn’t need any more publicity. His restaurant, ideally located at the southwest corner of Hoan Kiem Lake, is a favourite among tourists and expats looking for a more glamorous atmosphere than the nearby street stalls or Bao Khanh bars. And Mr Chinn delivers: billowing red curtains, scattered flower petals on table tops (and toilets), dried roses suspended from the ceiling, cutting edge art, delicious "pan-global" food, and, of course, Bobby Chinn himself, certainly set the scene for a memorable dining experience," write Alyssa Worsham and Sara Schapiro in The Vietnam News.

Deco Coffee, 4 Tong Dan St, Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi

"Though Vietnamese "fast food" restaurants can be found all over Hanoi, new Deco Coffee adds some class to the quick-bite lunchtime routine. On weekdays, if you venture out in Hanoi between the hours of 12am and 2pm, you’ll see groups of people flocking to street stalls and cafes to have a quick lunch. For these lunchgoers, time is of the essence because they either have errands to run, work to do, or are in need of a catnap before work starts again at 2pm. In a routine perfected by some of my Vietnamese colleagues, they go out right at 12pm, have a bite to eat, then head back to the office and spread out across two desk chairs for a quick rest. It’s the grown-up equivalent of kindergarten naptime," writes Bridget Brickford in The Vietnam News.

India Palace, 78 Xuan Dieu Street, Hanoi

"India Palace is the fourth member of owner Ravi Kumar’s growing family of restaurants. Tandoor Hanoi and Tandoor HCM City, which opened 10 and nine years ago, respectfully, are veritable institutions of the foreign food scene in Viet Nam. Dakshin, specialising in vegetarian cuisine, came along in 2002 to fill a niche for the foraging herbivores of Ha Noi. "People suggested I open a restaurant in this area years ago," says Kumar. "But it wasn’t the right time... until now." Although he hasn’t yet begun to promote the restaurant, it is building a steady clientele by reputation. "Ha Noi is expanding, and much of the growth is in the north of the city. It was almost unthinkable [to open here] even five years ago," he says, adding that a substantial number of new families in the area made the business viable," write Johnny Shaw in The Vietnam News.

Kangaroo Cafe, 18 Bao Khanh Street, Hanoi

"Leafing through the menu on my first visit some time ago, I found that Kangaroo Cafe is much more than a big mug of coffee; the food is also tasty and varied. And in my two and a half years eating at this place since that first time, I have had the chance to try just about every dish on the menu, from tantalising Vietnamese stir fried vegetables and noodles, to the tender Vietnamese-style fried steak with dolphin-shaped mashed potatoes, to the thick and juicy Aussie burger, accompanied by a hearty salad with crisp, crunchy tomatoes, carrots and lettuce in a zesty vinaigrette and chunky potato chips peppered in sesame seeds," writes James W Coates in Vietnam News.

Wild Lotus, 55A Nguyen Du Street, Hanoi

"Vietnam is unfortunately not without a profusion of restaurants suffering the common inverse relationship between the trendiness of surroundings and the quality of food, practically the modus vivendi of any ‘happening’ city. Wild Lotus promises to deliver ‘the best of modern Vietnamese and other Asian cuisine with a subtle infusion of Occidental culture’, and it delivers on the pledge. Guests can expect a luxuriant evening of superb food and wine, proving Wild Lotus has managed to buck the trend and deliver superb food in a laid-back lounge atmosphere, without waitstaff seemingly poised to catch falling chopsticks," writes Johny Shaw in The Vietnam News.