Bourdain back to Vietnam

He is, but I'm not - unfortunately - but it felt like I was for thirty minutes or so last night. Mike, now in New York City, emailed me a week or two ago to say he'd seen the Vietnam episode in the new Anthony Bourdain TV series No Reservations. The TV chef wrote to me about his trip to Vietnam. A quick search on YouTube and there is the episode spliced into four segments - Part 1 - Part 2 - Part 3 - Part 4. The guy is completely enamoured with the place, as he explains in the clip above. And I'll admit, noodlegirl and myself were pretty much silent for ten or fifteen minutes after watching the clips. Especially as the first place he eats in - Banh Xeo on Dinh Cong Trang - in the very first clip is a place we ate at roughly once a week for six years. And Bourdain's completely right - you need the noise, the fumes, the heat, the street chatter and the shouting for Vietnamese food.

It's interesting, but not too surprising, to hear how he has fallen so deeply for the place after relatively little time in the country. I've always had something of a love/hate relationship with Vietnam. Step away for a while and it's easy to forget the day long/night long powercuts, the traffic, the heat and humidity, the bloke down the street who used to get drunk and chase his wife with a meat cleaver, the pimps at the corner cafe, the rip off artists, the hassle and the tape. Far, far easier to focus on the good things that you miss i.e. the food. I can replicate power cuts and crap traffic in France without any difficulty. I cannot buy, nor make, a Banh xeo like the one you'll see in Part 1. But, be warned if you're viewing from outside Vietnam, you might find yourself shelling out for a ticket to Saigon immediately after watching it.

Comments

[Steve Jackson]

There's something about the place.

One thing about being an expat is that you attend endless leaving parties and we'd always say..they'll be back - and in time pretty much everyone was.

I know, if I can somehow work it I'll be back too next year.

Powercuts? You don't know you're born - you should try Cameroon.

And while I am not so entirely enamoured by Vietnamese food in the way that you and Mr Bourdain are - it beats Cameroonian fayre anytime.

[Graham]

But, it's not just a Vietnam thing. I have the same feeling for Korea, but I'd never want to live there again. With Vietnam I can imagine living there again, but I don't think it'd be my first choice.

Problem is it's hard to beat foodwise in Asia. Thailand probably has it on the ropes, but Thailand doesn't have the same appeal as VN, Laos, Camobodia.

Anyway... this is turf you and I have covered many times over the years. If you do make it back to Hanoi, please, please don't turn into one of those moronic pricks who tell everyone endlessly how it wasn't like this in my day, bore, bore, bore.

Do that and I'll.... unfollow you. There.

[Mike]

His explanation of "Why Vietnam?" was great to listen to. I've been asked that question so many times and still don't know quite how to answer it.

[Vincent]

I just recently found the opportunity to visit for 21 days. I'm on hold to book my flight as I type. I'm so glad to have watched the episode on air just yesterday. It brought back my best memories of the country since my last visit-- 1.5 years ago.

I can't wait to return.

[meemalee]

I really want to go to Vietnam, but I always feel that if I'm in that neck of the woods I should be visiting the rellies in Burma.

For now I'll probably stick to Shoreditch High Street for my Viet food fix...

[Graham]

It is a good explanation Mike, if a little too romantic and misty eyed for me - have I really grown that cynical ;) But look, we're all still here talking about the place and at least three of us in this thread left the country 3 or more years ago...

Vincent, have an excellent trip. I am most jealous, could murder a decent Bun Cha right now - it's lunchtime.

Shore Ditch High Street doesn't quite cut it, I do fully intend to blog that area sometime soon. I visited with a friend who know the restaurants well and just never got inspired enough to blog it... I will return soon. there are some photos though,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/noodlepie/sets/72157606766256972/

[Steve Jackson]

Graham,

I hope I don't get like that either - I do recall a few people who gave it: "ahh I can remember when this was all bicycles" when I was there.

However I always enjoyed the change in Vietnam as much as I enjoyed the history. I actually think that is part of its appeal - you can virtually see the rate of change as it develops out of centuries of war.

You can see the confidence growing. I always likened it to 50s developed world - I felt like I was witnessing the birth of the teenager there - and leisure time - even in some small way, feminism.

There's another issue here - if I go back then I'll be going back on a slightly different basis - also a bit older and a bit more tired.

If Vietnam has gentrified then it'll probably suit me.

It's fair to say though I have met people who hated Vietnam - people who passed through it and never "got it" - also a couple of people who had lived in the likes of Dubai who missed the luxury and felt that Hanoi was squalid.

[hien]

I know why I love VN. Because there aren't many stuck up people around! :D you can be you without putting up a poker face!

[ian stubbs]

good to see the old fella back in nam he was the reason I first went there food brillant,people wonderful,the friends I have there are great it's like a big family hope to be back soon.
ian

[Joey Fernandez]

hey there!

I came across your website because I ate at that crab place at 94 dinh tieng hoang. succulent stuff. yes, your website is awesome. am watching the bourdain show in vietnam.

anyway, great work!

and yes, now I want to go back to saigon just to eat at that banh xeo place. darn it!