Lunch. Barbecued shrimp paste on sugarcane or Chao tom. With ‘angel bun’ (fine cold vermicelli noodles), sprinkled with chopped peanuts and chopped spring onion, rice paper, slices of cucumber, raw beansprouts and a nuoc mam (fish sauce dip). Bloody great lunchtime nibble from the Banh xeo shed on Dinh Cong Trang street. More snaps. And a recipe. Who thinks these things up? Shrimp paste on sugarcane. Marvellous.